You should be able to setup a bluetooth or wireless camera system that the tablet can view.

Brules wrote: Do you really need a backup camera on that cracker box?

LOL Got a google "text message" from Dan today when I was driving... I didn't even know it did that. heh
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I didn't think you'd gotten it. lulz
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Any electrical type peeps out there wanna help me with a problem? There was a humming sound coming fro the speakers along with alternator noise when the engine is running. This only happens when I have the power plugged into the tablet. If the tablet is running off of its own battery and not plugged in there is zero hum or whine from alternator. I purchased a ground loop isolator for the power plug the tablet is getting it's power from. This took care of the alternator whine but the low pitched hum is there still present at high volume. Any ideas?
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Gorund issue. Or you are getting bleed over via RCA wires from power wire.
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I guess I can try an rca ground loop isolator as well to see if that takes the low hum out. I'll pick one up tomorrow. Those don't affect the gain do they?
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For with what measure you measure it will be measured to you.

Any type of isolator is like a band aid for a bullet wound. It might keep the blood from coming out but does nothing to solve the actual problem. Low hums are usually caused by your RCAs being too close to a noise generating device. In home and business audio, this is often caused by cables going near fluorescent lights. In cars the source is a bit harder to find but look for things that generate radio signals.

Alternator whine is almost always a ground loop. What that means is the electrical device on one end of a signal path (head unit, preamp, amplifier) is improperly grounded and "pulls" ground from the device it is connected to. This brings the ground flow through the RCA and subjects the cable to the noise generation of the ground through the entire length of the cable. This is most often solved by checking the ground of all devices in your audio system, verifying the ground of the vehicle is sufficient, adding more ground to the vehicle, and replacing poor performing audio devices. Ground loop isolators can "fix" the noise but don't solve the problem. The device is still improperly grounded, they just cover up the electrical interference.

I've only worked on one car in my 7 year car audio career that had unsolvable ground noise problems, and I am still convinced I could have fixed it if the customer would have allowed us to keep working on it. I even donated my time because it was such a great challenge but I think I got enough of it out that he was happy. It was an older MR2 (like my blue one) and I'm fairly convinced it was a bad alternator voltage regulator. I wasn't going to replace that piece but adding more ground paths from the alternator/engine to the chassis could have helped.

Sorry to derail, just trying to make the point that your noise problems are solvable without isolators. Go through all the grounds on your equipment first. Make sure they are screwed to actual metal, not to painted metal. Remove paint if necessary. Make sure the metal they are screwed to is properly connected to the body. Thinking of this really quick, try a long piece of 14 gauge wire, connect it to the negative battery terminal, then touch it to the grounds for all your equipment. When the noise goes away, you found the unit with the bad ground.

Hey svenn, thanks for that explanation. I wish I would have read it before purchasing a ground loop isolator from radio Shack this morning. It did solve the problem by placing it between the volume control and the amp. But, even though it says that it doesn't affect sound quality I personally think it sounds a bit more tinny than it did. Like less low range or something. I think when I can get some time I will try your wire to negative battery trick an see. I'm going to guess it's the additional power socket I installed in the dash to power the tablet as I grounded it to the "ground" wire in the car's harness. (and powered it with the switched ignition wire of same.)
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Ground to the frame and use big wire to do it.

My 1000w truck system is grounded with 0 or 1 guage.....cant remember which.
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K-SWISS Power cologne. Who knew you could bottle the scent of boner?

Please don't ground your volume control with 1/0 (pronounced one-ought). 14 to 16 gauge is plenty for low power devices, but don't use the car's ground. Those often jump all over the place, are thin, and go through a bunch of connectors. Find a dash bracket that goes into part of the unibody, and make sure that it is actually metal to metal, not paint to paint.

Hey Shinare, I bet it is your cheap amp.......if it isn't, run the ground wire for it to your frame/body amd grind off the paint before you screw it down. That should fix it I think......like 7 said above.

May not work 100% if your amp is reallllly crappy. It could be in the amp itself and never go away.
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Well, the thing is, it sounds GREAT until I plug in the power source to my tablet. If I have the tablet running off of its battery and the car running and the amp turned up to max there is ZERO noise. The Amp sounds great, way better than the amp in the stock stereo.

Plugging the car charger power in, then out, then in, then out of the tablet while the car is turned on produces hum then no hum then hum then no hum etc... That's why I thought just putting an isolator on the power plug to the tablet would fix it, but it didn't. I listened to music on the way to work today and I'm positive that isolator I put on the RCA connector between the volume knob and the amp has seriously changed the sound quality.

There is bare metal bracket bolted onto the bare metal frame of the dashboard right behind the stereo. I bolted the ground of the ground loop isolator to my power plug to it. I guess I could just ground the power plug to it right? (without tying into the ground of the car's harness)? Should I also ground the amp's ground wire to that point as well instead of the harness ground?
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Perhapse I should take a picture of the inside sometime?
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PICS:


All Done!


Bezel Removed:


Held on with Magnets


Mounting Plate:


Inside:


Where I grounded the ground loop isolator for the power socket:


The ground loop isolator:

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